Hey hey hey,
AHHH!!! I did it! I finally went to my first bull fight, and what an experience it was. Bullfighting in spanish is known as "Corrida de Toros" It was absolutely the best thing I have done yet with my time here in Spain! It completely took my breath away.. now let me explain.
I have been learning about bullfighting and this "art" all throughout high school and have always had an interest in it and never understood why the heck would they kill bulls, and how is this an art? It's terrible, they're killing innocent bulls. Now, don't get me wrong - I don't believe this is an 'art' personally, but I do have a completely different perspective, understanding and respect for this part of the Spanish culture.
Let me start with the bullring, "La Plaza de Toros" in Sevilla, it is BEAUTIFUL. Oh my goodness, just from the outside - the white facade was gorgeous, as well as the yellow and red accents of doors, archways, and geo-metric shapes - otherwise known as the Neo-classical period (See.. this is what my art of spain class does to me!!!)
Anywhos, as soon as we found out seats (which wasn't easy in a huge ring like that! Lol and people were in our seats.. but we kicked them out muwahaha!) Finally, once inside the ring and settled it all hit me. I looked to my left, my right, straight in front of me and there were thousands.. thousands of people - the ring can hold up to 12,500 people and every single seat was full.
La Plaza de Toros, Sevilla Spain *
The first bull made me very uneasy. I remember I looked out in front of me and all a sudden a bull was just dead, laying on the floor waiting to be taken out of the ring. The feeling I got in my stomach watching the first fight is something I'll never forget. It was unexplainable, think of the most uncomfortable situation you've ever been in where you feel frozen, like your body can't move - you're in complete shock.. kinda like that, but worse.
It got better as it went though! The first is always the worst. The rest of the show I loved and enjoyed! Me and my friend Maile were definitely too into it screaming and chanting.. but hey, when in Spain...!!
In our show we had two matadors and 6 bulls - each matador taking on 2 bulls! But, in our show when we went one of the matadors got injured. The bull hit right into him and gutted his lower stomach and leg - he had to be taken immediately out of the ring and could not return back to fight. This was SCARY. My jaw dropped, I grabbed my friends hands - I couldn't believe what we saw. It is SO rare to EVER see a matador get hurt and have the bull attack them.. but of course it was the one I went too!! (So cool though.)
It's crazy to think that just like that his life could have been over, the matadors really are putting out everything they have - their life is on the line. Faced with situation of life or death, I know I could never do it - and for that reason I respect it so much! Luckily, the matador was fine and just had some bruises and seemed medical attention.. Phew!
Okay bull fighting info time! So each matador had a team of six people - including two picadors ("lancers") who are on horses (but the horses on blind folded and have crazy protection so the bulls cant hurt them!!) three banderilleros ("flagmen"), and a mozo de espada ("sword servant"), he hands the matador the final sword right before he kills the bull.
There are three stages of bullfighting:
Stage 1 – Tercio de "Picadores
Stage 2 – Tercio de Banderillas
Stage 3 – Tercio de Muerte - "La hora de la verdad"
And before each stage the trumpets always played to represent a change in stage!
In the first stage - This is when the matadors assistants - banderillas greet the bull at the entrance with their pink and yellow cape (capote!) There are opening passes in this stage to get the bull fired up, and then the picadores come in (the people on the horseback) and there are 3 main reasons why the picadores play an important part - it's a final test of the bulls "bravura" (willingness to charge at anything), give the bull confidence, and to temper the bulls charge!
Banderilla waiting for the bulls entry!
In the second stage - This is when the banderillas plant two "barbed sticks" little flag looking things, with sharp metal ends - they are placed right in the bulls shoulders too weaken the enormous ridges of neck and shoulder muscle. The bull now has lost a lot of blood causing the bull to make also make more ferocious charges. After this the bull is extremely exhausted and the matadors makes an appearance with his sword and cape - really tiring the bull out!
Banderilla about to place the barbed sticks into bulls shoulders!
In the third stage - The moment of truth! This is when the matador re-enters the ring alone with a small red cape "muelta" in one hand and a sword in the other. The matador does a series of passes with the cape - tiring the bull out even more getting ready for his final kill of the sword. This is known as estocada. Literally means "thrusting of the sword." The matador has 15 minutes to kill off the bull!
Matador about to kill off the bull!!!
When the bull is finally killed there is a team of mules that drag the bulls body out of the ring.
Here is a little synopsis of what a bullfight is like :)
The matadors wear a special suite called 'traje de luces' aka ""suit of lights."
These are custom-made and embroidered with silver or golden thread, and easiest way to spot out who the matador is! It was beautiful to see the suit shine as the sun fell and the night grew to dusk - he sparked and shined in the bullring!!!
Fun fact about bullfighting - Bulls are actually color blind so the idea of a red cape has no significance other then it just being tradition and that blood stains are less noticeable on it. Bulls are attracted by the sense of movement and moving objects hence the cape! Lol
Also, what I learned is that the bulls before the fight are taken extremely good care of, fed well, and all - nothing bad nor tortured. Now I know you're thinking well they still kill them, and yes they do - but that's part of the Spanish culture and to many it is an art.
Also, what I learned is that the bulls before the fight are taken extremely good care of, fed well, and all - nothing bad nor tortured. Now I know you're thinking well they still kill them, and yes they do - but that's part of the Spanish culture and to many it is an art.
Something else about the matadors risking their lives.. is that you'll notice that their stance is extremely outward.. meaning they're throwing their junk out there hahaha - because they're risking it all! If you know what I mean ;-)
Red cape used by mandator in his 'suit of lights!'
When a matador does really well with a series of turns with the cape, people will typically scream "Ole!" and when the fight is over if it was good people have white handkerchiefs that they twirl around in the air.. oh and everyone stands after each kill too, or atleast when I went!
When the fight is over - and say the matador had an extremely good fight - he can be presented with a trophy "trofeo." Usually the crowd will demand the presenting of an ear of the bull that was just killed when it is deserved (waving the white handkerchiefs), and if so happens the matador is allowed to take a victory lap (vuelta al rudeo) around the ring! The president always hands out the "trofeo"
BUT! If a matador was extremely well and has an incredible fight they can be awarded BOTH ears of the bull - when this happens the matador is carried on the shoulders by his 'admires' (salida en hombres) We got to see both! One matador took his victory lap, and the other riding in his glory on the shoulder of his admires!!!
First matador taking his victory lap!
Second matador being carried by his "salida en hombres"
This experience literally was beyond words. This blog post to say the least isn't even a full explanation and description of what exactly I saw and absorbed from this. Without hesitation, my favorite thing I have done with my time here - I would never guess that watching bulls be killed in a ring would affect me, but it truly did - it was beautiful, just like everything else in this city. Being able to absorb all different parts of the Spanish culture is one thing I am so lucky to have throughout my journey here!!
Viva la vida!!!! Vamos al Plaza de Toros ;-)
Hasta hora,
Ayla
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